The Ultimate Guide to Caring for Leather and Suede Jackets

Leather and suede jackets are both a historic and timeless fashion staple that exude practicality and versatility. These types of jackets can really make on outfit. However, to keep them looking their best for years to come, proper care is essential. In this comprehensive guide, we'll walk you through the steps of maintaining your leather and suede jackets, ensuring they remain as stunning as the day you brought them home, no matter what age or era. I have linked a guide for a specific tutorial on how to remove oil or grease stains from suede, and have also linked some great suede and leather products down below. 

Firstly, it is important to understand the material you are working with. Here is a quick guide to help you identify the type of leather, its typical applications and the grades: 

• Types of Leather Glossary: A Quick Guide

  • Bonded Leather:
    • Made from production leftovers
    • Contains at least 50% animal hide
    • Shredded fibres and hide scraps bonded with polyurethane or latex
    • Used for less visible components in products like soles, linings, and book covers
  • Bridle Leather:
    • High-quality cowhide, smooth and flexible
    • In-depth tanning process with grease, wax, and dye
    • Stiff at first, develops a unique patina over time
    • Originally for equestrian trade, used for belts, straps, and holsters
  • Deerskin Leather:
    • Tanned hide of a deer, thin and durable
    • Stretchy, retains softness even when wet
    • Used for high-end fashion items like handbags, shoes, and coats
  • Full Grain Leather:
    • Highest quality, natural look and feel
    • Strong, breathable, retains animal skin characteristics
    • Ideal for handbags, jackets, shoes, and accessories
    • Develops rich patina over time
  • Genuine Leather:
    • Corrected grain leather, lower quality
    • Stiff, less durable than higher-grade leathers
    • Affordable alternative for products like backpacks and briefcases
  • Goatskin Leather:
    • Morocco leather, supple and durable
    • Lanolin keeps it soft and water-resistant
    • Used for clothes, gloves, bags, and some shoes
  • Lambskin Leather:
    • From young sheep, buttery smooth texture
    • Soft, delicate, becomes even smoother over time
    • Used in jackets, gloves, wallets, and upscale products
  • Nubuck Leather:
    • Velvety touch, strong but scratches easily
    • Made from top-grain cowhide, sanded and dyed
    • Suitable for fine clothing, bags, and gentle-use items
  • Split Grain Leather:
    • Thicker hides split into layers, outer layer used for top grain
    • Suede or treated varieties for clothing, accessories, car interiors
    • Not as strong as higher grade leathers, loses breathability with surface coating
  • Suede:
    • Soft, fibrous bottom layer of animal skin
    • Velvety texture, lightweight
    • Used for dress shoes, bags, clutches, linings, and clothing
    • Less durable than full or top grain leather
  • Top Grain Leather:
    • Smooth, uniform appearance
    • Slightly thinner than full grain, easier to work with
    • Can be stamped with designs, used for various accessories
    • Protective finish prevents stains or scrapes

• Leather Grades: A Quick Overview

  • Full Grain Leather: Highest quality, natural appearance, ideal for durable accessories
  • Top Grain Leather: Smooth, uniform, used for a wide range of accessories
  • Genuine Leather: Corrected grain, affordable, suitable for various products
  • Bonded Leather: Made from leftovers, used for less visible parts in products

1. Cleaning when necessary:
Cleaning your leather and suede jacket is the first step in preserving its longevity. Being gentle is key. Here's how to do it:

Leather Jackets:
- When necessary or maybe once a year, gently wipe down the jacket with a damp cloth to remove surface dirt and dust.
- Use a mild leather cleaner (I would recommend leather/saddle soap) or a solution of water and a drop of dish soap on a soft cloth to gently clean the leather. If the leather is already distressed from age, I would just recommend a leather cleaner and not to use the dish soap method. Nearly all saddle/leather soaps and cleaners also contain conditioning waxes and oils. 
- Avoid using harsh chemicals or excessive water, as they can damage the leather's natural oils. Also, please use the softest sponge/cloth possible. 

Suede Jackets:

-It is best to avoid wearing suede in the rain. 

- Use a suede brush or a soft microfibre cloth to remove light dirt and restore the nap.
- For stains, use a suede eraser or a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water. Blot the stain gently; avoid rubbing, as it can worsen the stain and interfere with the grain nap. There are a variety of suede cleaners on the market. 'Crepe Protect' does an excellent cleaning and conditioning kit for all suede and nubuck items. This guide here is great for oil/grease stains on suede which requires a different process.

2. Conditioning:
Leather and suede can dry out over time, leading to cracking and fading. Conditioning helps restore their suppleness. Both suede and leather tassels are prone to drying out, if they dry out they can become brittle. 

Leather Jackets:
- Choose a leather conditioner appropriate for your jacket type (smooth, full-grain, or distressed).
- Apply the conditioner in small amounts on a clean cloth and gently massage it into the leather.
- Wipe off excess conditioner and let the jacket air dry before storing.

-There are also leather conditioners that contain dye for restoring colour (linked below). 

Suede Jackets:
- Use a suede-specific conditioner to maintain the suede's softness and prevent it from becoming stiff.
- Apply the conditioner evenly and let it absorb into the suede for a few hours before wearing according to the cleaning products manufactures instructions.

3. Storage:
Proper storage prevents wrinkles, creases, and damage when your jackets aren't in use.
- Hang your leather or suede jacket on padded hangers to maintain its shape.
- Store your jackets in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and moisture.

4. Waterproofing:
Protect your leather and suede jackets from unexpected rain or spills with waterproofing products.

- For leather jackets, use a leather protector spray to create a barrier against water and stains. Apply it in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry thoroughly.
- Suede jackets can benefit from a suede protector spray. Apply it evenly and let it dry before wearing the jacket again.

5. Professional Care:
If your leather or suede jacket requires deeper cleaning or restoration, it may be best to seek professional assistance.

- Professional leather cleaners can rejuvenate your leather jacket's appearance and address more stubborn stains.
- Suede jackets can be cleaned and restored by specialists who know how to handle the delicate material.

6. Jackets that smell:

With vintage and second hand clothing, they may smell fusty or of old cigarettes. The best thing to do is hang up outside to let them air. This should greatly reduce the smell, be careful to not let them be rained on. Most the the time it is the lining that smells more than the leather outer. If this is the case, this can be lightly rubbed with a damp cloth with some detergent on, then again with just a damp cloth, whilst taking care to not to wet the leather behind the lining. There are also some aerosol disinfectants that are fabric safe, these are good for the armpit areas. Some people say spraying with Vodka works too.

Also, covering the lining with a layer or baking soda then shaking it off works well. If the leather outer smells, airing, cleaning and then conditioning should remove the smell. Repeat the process over time.  

Conclusion:
Caring for your leather and suede jackets is an investment in their longevity and appearance. By following these steps, you can ensure that your jackets remains stunning for years to come. Regular cleaning, proper conditioning, and careful storage will help you enjoy the timeless elegance of leather and suede without worry.

Here are some products/brands that we use for suede:

• Crep Protect have a fantastic range that I have used on both jackets and shoes.
• This Brush Kit contains a bristle brush for tough stains on suede to remove debris, 1 Suede Brush, 1 4-Way Shoe Brush for hard to reach areas, 2 Suede Erasers for scuffs and 1 Microfiber Buffing Cloth.
• This Suede cleaning foam is great! It removes water marks

For leather:

• The brand Leather Honey has an amazing and gentle range of products including liquid cleaners and conditioners.
• Fiebings Saddle Soap is also one of my favourites
• This product here is an excellent colour restoring conditioner that comes in a variety of colours